The pretty town of Bruton, in Somerset, has much to recommend it, including Merlin Labron-Johnson’s tiny farm-to-table restaurant, Osip. Labron-Johnson came to our attention first at In De Wulf, and later at Portland and Clipstone in London. He launched Osip in 2019 and immediately dispensed with a formal menu, instead creating a daily list of elegant, minimalist plates in response to the shifting seasons. Produce is sourced locally, including from Labron-Johnson’s own land. You will come away from the experience feeling as if you have tasted the best the region has to offer.