In the carnivorous City of London, Angler stands out with its fish-focused menu. Executive chef Gary Foulkes has worked for the legends of modern British cuisine, among them Gary Rhodes, John Campbell and Philip Howard, and one can detect their influence, quite literally in the case of Phil Howard’s XL Langoustine Dish, with parmesan gnocchi, truffle purée, potato and truffle emulsion. The sourcing’s strong, with cod from Newlyn, and crab and Maison Burgaud duck on both carte and tasting menus. The rooftop, one of the Square Mile’s worst-kept secrets, can be heated or covered as the season demands.