Cutting-edge technique is pressed into mother nature’s service at L’Enclume, Simon Rogan’s pioneering restaurant-with-rooms in the Lake District. Over 17 years in Cartmel, Rogan has calibrated his cuisine in tandem with his organic farm, a five minute drive from the restaurant’s door, to mirror the landscape and seasons. If there’s such a thing as a typical dish, it might be Orkney scallops in a house made XO sauce and topped with black truffles, his signature seaweed custard with beef broth, bone marrow and caviar and aged veal in coal oil, shallot and oxalis.