Ten kilometers from the town of Logroño, the capital of Rioja, you will find the house of Tomás Fernández. A simple and endearing man, he is a master of cooking on the wood-fired grill known as an asador. Working from a glassed-in booth that prevents the smoke from entering the narrow dining room, Fernández showcases various cuts, typically of Galician beef, that diners can choose from. If you’re lucky, he will be serving T-bone steaks – some of the best in Spain – when you visit.