Like its soulmate Trippa in Milan, Santo Palato is among the best examples of the neo-trattoria: wooden and marble tables, walls painted in ochre, a neon billboard sign that says “Trattoria.” Yet Rome possesses what Milan always lacked: the spontaneous quality, paired with informality, of a neighborhood trattoria. Chef Sarah Cicolini does the classics well – including a carbonara loaded with egg yolks – but her cooking also shines with quinto quarto (“fifth quarter”: offal) in dishes such as frittata with regaje (entrails) and chicken or her signature oxtail meatball with lovage and cocoa.