Since the super-talented Ciro Salvo opened his own place in Naples, people queue up at any hour of the night for a slice of his delicious pizza, made with locally sourced, top-quality ingredients: his outstanding Marinara (tomato sauce, oregano and sliced garlic) shows why the simplest things are the hardest to make right. What’s with the name? Pizzaioli have their own obscure jargon: they use the Greek word “kalò” to say “good”, while 50 is the number of bread, O’ ppane, in the Smorfia, which could be described as a Neapolitan version of Kabbala (but it’s used to play the lottery).