Davide Oldani has spent a good chunk of his very successful career theorizing – and practicing – the possibility of operating a fine dining restaurant at a trattoria price point, ingredients and ambience included. His wildly popular restaurant – reservations were taken one year in advance for a tasting menu of 38 euros that included his famous caramelized onion with Parmigiano foam – has now relocated to a somewhat grander venue in the same leafy piazza, and these days, Oldani allows himself much more freedom of movement, even when it means more classical dishes and more luxurious ingredients.