Viareggio used to be the grande dame of Versilia, famous for its long, sandy beaches and nightlife. The city has an old-world charm thanks to the beautiful Art Deco buildings lining its boardwalk; the one housing the luxury hotel Principe di Piemonte is arguably the most remarkable. In his 20-year tenure, chef Giuseppe Mancino has perfected the formula for the great hotel restaurant, mixing local seafood cuisine and flavors with those of the broader Mediterranean sea. Among the signature dishes: pizzaiola-style red mullet, Tuscan bread, mozzarella, capers, tomatoes, black olives and spaghetti creamed with butter, anchovies and smoked tea.