These days, many places describing themselves as antica (“ancient”) osterias have popped up overnight. Though this trend demonstrates the popularity of the trattoria format, it is also bitter testimony to how little respect it gets. The Antica Osteria del Mirasole is the real thing, and as soon as you step inside, you will understand what fuels the nostalgia: The fireplace, the dark tables and pristine linens, and the trinkets and memorabilia on the shelves create the backdrop for a beautiful, genuine cuisine of local specialties, such as tortellini in milk cream and guinea fowl alla cenere (“cooked in ashes”), that are made to perfection.