Inside the walls of a 17th-century mill located in a mountainous area, Alessandro Gilmozzi has been quietly pushing the envelope of the definition of hyper-local cuisine. He defines his cooking as “of the Dolomites,” and his years of research have led him to apply modern cooking techniques to ancient [instead: traditional?] ingredients. Take his “subsistence bread,” made of bark flour and served with herring, lavender and meringue. The tasting menu is daring yet always in control, in dishes such as risotto with a noble cheese mold or grilled arctic char with fir, pine nuts fermented in cream and nasturtium.