If “wine is fifty per cent of the dining experience” at the family-run Champany Inn near Edinburgh, then the other fifty is probably steak. The late Clive Davidson took on the historic inn in 1982, dedicating himself to serving grass-fed Scottish beef and fine wines – many from his native South Africa – alongside local shellfish, smoked salmon and whisky. Choose prime rib carved tableside with old-school trimmings (onion rings, etc.) and revel in the splendidly over-the-top surrounds.