Jockeying for position at the top of Britain’s culinary premier league is Sat Bains, at the stove of his eponymous Nottingham restaurant-with-rooms since 1999. The location is famously unlovely (under a flyover off the A52), but Bains’ food and the welcome from his wife, Amanda, are the opposite. Self-taught, Bains has developed a style that is imaginative and experimental, segueing from the near-iconic baked potato with caviar to chicken muesli redux and barbecued squab with Moroccan spices. Bookings are available at the Nucleus development kitchen table.